Abbesses Metro

Abbesses Metro

Paris, France

Look at that entrance. Those green iron curves, that amber glass canopy — it looks like something that grew out of the sidewalk. Like a plant that decided to become architecture. A man named Hector Guimard designed this.

Look at that entrance. Those green iron curves, that amber glass canopy — it looks like something that grew out of the sidewalk. Like a plant that decided to become architecture.

A man named Hector Guimard designed this. He designed a hundred and forty-one Metro entrances for Paris, and he didn't stop at the entrances. He designed the railings, the lettering, the lampposts — and at home, he designed his own wallpaper, his own carpets, his own furniture, his own doorknobs. Every single doorknob. This was a man who could not walk into a room without redesigning it.

Parisians HATED it. They called his style noodle style. Tapeworm style. Mutton bone style. A critic in Le Figaro said the lamps looked like enormous frog eyes. When he proposed an entrance for the Opera station — right next to the grand Palais Garnier — the city council rejected it as incongruous. That rejection essentially ended his Metro career.

Of a hundred and forty-one original entrances, only eighty-six survive. The c

ity kept ripping them out for decades. And this particular entrance — the gorgeous glass canopy you're looking at — isn't even FROM here. It spent its first seventy-four years at the Hotel de Ville station across the river. In nineteen seventy-four, they dismantled it piece by piece and carted it across Paris to Montmartre. Only two original glass canopy entrances survive in the entire world. This

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Quick Facts

  • Hector Guimard designed 141 Paris Metro entrances in Art Nouveau style; only 86 survive today
  • This Abbesses entrance was relocated from the Hôtel de Ville station in 1974 — it's one of only two original glass-canopy entrances left in the world
  • Guimard, married to Jewish-American painter Adeline Oppenheim, fled to New York in 1938 and died there in 1942, largely forgotten; a 1970 MoMA exhibition restored his reputation
  • The I Love You Wall (Mur des Je T'aime) nearby has 311 translations of "I love you" in 250 languages, hand-inscribed on 612 tiles of volcanic lava
  • Fulgence Bienvenue, who built the entire Paris Metro system, had lost his left arm in a railway accident at 29
  • Abbesses station is 36 meters underground with 176 spiral stairs — the deepest station in Paris for over a century
Featured Tour

Montmartre: Geniuses, Gluttons & Goats

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Location

Paris, France
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